DRAMATIC ART 470-001 Survey of Costume History: Syllabus Fall Semester 2020; T-TH 9:45-11:00;  Via ZOOM (synchronous) Watch this space for important notices. 8-23-2020:  The final examination schedule has finally been posted:  DRAM 470/470H will occur on Friday November 20, 2020 from 4-7 PM, via Zoom. Community Standards in Our Course and Mask Use (which does not apply to online courses). This fall semester, while we are in the midst of a global pandemic, all enrolled students are required to wear a mask covering your mouth and nose at all times in our classroom. This requirement is to protect our educational community — your classmates and me — as we learn together. If you choose not to wear a mask, or wear it improperly, I will ask you to leave immediately, and I will submit a report to the Office of Student Conduct.  At that point you will be disenrolled from this course for the protection of our educational community. An exemption to the mask wearing community standard will not typically be considered to be a reasonable accommodation. Individuals with a disability or health condition that prevents them from safely wearing a face mask must seek alternative accommodations through the Accessibility Resources and Service. For additional information, see Carolina Together. Overview: Survey of Costume History considers the development of modern clothing forms by tracing their evolution. Just as with their beginnings in the ancient Egyptian, Greek, and Roman civilizations, garments worn today reflect the society in which they occur. The course focuses on what is worn, as well as why it is worn. The course relies heavily on visual information presented during class that is reinforced in the textbook. Students are expected to learn and understand the historical context by making connections between the garments worn and the eras in which they occur.

Course Schedule:

Date		Course Topic	Payne (2nd Ed)
August	11	Course Introduction
	13	Motivations for Dress
	18	Important Concepts
	20	Ancient World: Egypt	p. 28-55
	25	Egypt continued
	27	Ancient World: Greece	p. 67-85
September	1	Greece continued
	3	Ancient World: Rome	p. 99-120
	8	Rome continued
	10	Early Middle Ages: Byzantium	p. 122-139
	15	Middle Ages 10-13th century	p. 141-180 with emphasis p. 160-180
		Paper Topic and an annotated list of some sources Due
	17	Middle Ages 10-13th century continued
	22	Mid-term Examination
	24	14th Century	p. 182-206
	29	14th Century continued
October	1	15th Century	p. 208-264
	6	15th Century continued
	8	Tudor and Elizabethan: 16th Century	p. 266-360
	13	Tudor and Elizabethan: 16th Century continued
	15	17th Century	p. 362-388
	20	18th Century	p. 390-415
	22	18th Century continued	p. 416-450
	27	Late 18th and Early 19th Century Directoire and Empire: 1790-1820
	29	19th Century: Romantic 1820-1849; Crinoline 1850-1869	p. 453-517
November	3	19th Century: Bustle 1870-1890; 1890s	p. 517-542
		Paper due
	5	Early 20th Century: Edwardian and WWI	p. 543-575
	10	Mid-20th Century	p. 575-618
	12	Late-20th Century	p. 618-633
	17	21st Century Overview
		Historic Costume File due
	??	FINAL EXAM AT 4-7 PM (Friday) via ZOOM

Required Text: 

• Payne, Blanche, Geitel Winakor, and Jane Ferrell-Beck. The History of Costume 2nd edition. New York: HarperCollins Publishers, Inc., 1992. The 3rd edition (or the first) is also acceptable although the page numbers will vary.

Research Paper (30%)

A 10 page paper (excluding illustrations, citations, etc.) worth 30% of your grade is due no later than 5:00 PM on November 3, 2020 when it can be deposited in Dropbox on the course sakai site. The specific topic must be an examination of a person who lived during one of the historical periods covered in this class, the clothing worn by the person, the particular garments depicted (and those that created the foundation), and the social context of their time that affected the clothing. The individual is left to you, but one with an extant full-length portrait or photograph before 1910 is required to use as the basis for the examination of the costume. The need for a full-length portrait will unfortunately exclude some individuals including Cleopatra and Jane Austen.

A successful paper will include perhaps a page about the person and another page or two about the times in which they lived, two or three pages explaining the clothing forms worn, and a page or two about the reason the person dressed in the way depicted in the chosen image. Because successful papers must include the social context in which the individual lived and an examination of the reasons for the garment(s) being worn, why choices are made will be as important as what the elements of costume included. Carefully chosen and actively used illustrations are important and should supplement the chosen image. Obviously, careful consideration of a particular aspect of clothing will be necessary. For example, you might choose Emperor Justinian, George Washington or Martha Custis Washington, Madame Pompadour, Benjamin Franklin, Queen Henrietta Marie, Oliver Cromwell, Julius Caesar, or your great-grandmother, etc. If you select Queen Victoria you might focus on a particular aspect of her dress such as her wedding dress or her coronation garments. Writing a paper about her wedding dress and her coronation garments is impossible in a paper of this length, making it important to choose carefully. In most cases, examining more than one full-length image will be necessary as will researching clothing forms of the period. It may be possible to focus on a particularly intricate headdress or element of clothing, but a general examination of the entire garment must be included.

The paper topic (name and dates of subject; 3 item bibliography, and image) must be approved by the instructor on or before September 15, 2020. The paper is to be based on research as opposed to personal observation, although "A" papers must contain original thought. All papers must be properly formatted following the MLA style guidelines and be written in the objective third person. The ideal audience for the paper will be reasonably bright fellow students with little background in the history of clothes. For most papers, scanned illustrations will be a necessary part of the final product (and do not count as part of the text requirement). It is my understanding that fair use means that photocopied/scanned and properly cited illustrations for classroom use are allowed under current copyright laws.

The Internet is a popular resource, but much of the material available about costume history is on pages that are not very accurate in part because they are maintained as a hobby. Avoid using sites that are not attributed to a reputable source, commercial sites (trying to sell you items), and secondary (or tertiary) sources. When you use the World Wide Web at all, look for sites provided by research libraries and museums and those which credit an author. Books that have been scanned are fine. Sites labeled "com" are rarely acceptable; those labeled "edu" or "gov" or "org" are generally more reliable. Databases and resources obtained via electronic means instead of via print are acceptable with the method for viewing the material cited, per MLA guidelines, for example print or web. See http://style.mla.org/.

Historic Costume File (5%)

Fashion cycles never end. What was introduced and popular at one point in history inevitably will reappear in another – perhaps altered yet still recognizable even when combined with other elements. As you eat your oatmeal for breakfast, snack on peanuts using spare change, and consider which movie to attend or app to download, you should become more and more aware of how much clothing forms from the past are used to provide visual information in the present. You may not be aware of their importance: pleats were first used in ancient Egypt and are now ubiquitous. Parti-coloring, full skirts, pointed shoes, bustles, neck ruffs, and most decorative elements to name a few have all reappeared over and over again. The purpose of the clipping file is to help you recognize and become able to specifically identify historic costume forms and use appropriate vocabulary to identify them. And in this election season, the language of clothing should be especially apparent.

Collect examples, approximately 50 of them, that illustrate the occurrence of historic costume forms in the modern world. The examples may come from websites you commonly visit, print sources including newspapers and magazines, advertisements and posters, household goods, etc. -- all of which must be recent (published within the last year). Written entries can substitute for 10% of the examples when you cannot obtain a clipping (for example, you observed someone wearing leggings or you saw a movie set in another time). Part of the purpose of this assignment is to make you aware of the language of dress in everyday life as you look at The Daily Tar Heel, make a new friend on Face Book, read Vogue or Sports Illustrated, etc. This project is not an historical research project, so while you may photocopy rather than cut pictures out of your sources, you should not use Google to look for examples.

You should present your clippings using PowerPoint on a jump drive, via Tumblr, or as a traditional printed scrapbook (Pinterest is not appropriate for projects like this). The file should be categories following the syllabus topics. Some eras will have more modern relevance than others (Roman sandals are currently popular) but some may not be represented at all. The project is due November 17, 2020 (printed versions and jump drives will be returned at the final exam; everyone will receive written feedback). Each entry must be identified by source and contain a thoughtful written description of the connection between the past and the present – similarities and/or differences. The distinctions between periods will become more familiar as the semester progresses, but you should begin collecting items immediately and refine them throughout the term. We will begin most classes by sharing examples.

Plagiarism and Honor Code:  All exams and written work must be submitted with a statement that you have complied with the requirements of the Honor Code in all aspects of the work.  Details can be found at http://instrument.unc.edu (most recently revised on July 25, 2017).

Title IX Resources: Any student who is impacted by discrimination, harassment, interpersonal (relationship) violence, sexual violence, sexual exploitation, or stalking is encouraged to seek resources on campus or in the community. Please contact the Director of Title IX Compliance (Adrienne Allison – Adrienne.allison@unc.edu), Report and Response Coordinators in the Equal Opportunity and Compliance Office (reportandresponse@unc.edu), Counseling and Psychological Services (confidential), or the Gender Violence Services Coordinators (gvsc@unc.edu; confidential) to discuss your specific needs. Additional resources are available at safe.unc.edu.

Note: If it becomes necessary to change the syllabus, advance notification will be provided.